Gallery

April 26th, 2010

The MMI Bordeaux 2009 List

April 26th, 2010

Why this range? Other than the obvious ‘star’ wines, the selection for 2009 was very difficult – there was just so much good wine to choose from and we can’t offer 200 or more Chateaux!

In the end we’ve gone from a mix of all the classics, Chateaux we’ve followed regularly from Cru Bourgeois to 2nd Growth’s and a sprinkling of new finds – again at all price points.

To make the final cut we were extremely stringent on just getting the very best. All these wines are, in the belief of the MMI Bordeaux buying team and much of the wine world, simply outstanding at all levels. So fill your boots ladies and gentlemen.

St Estephe

April 26th, 2010

Montrose
A tremendous Montrose. Dense, balanced black fruit and cedar with a wonderful structure. Their finest hour? Definitely a top 20 of the vintage and many other commentators have it in their top 5. Robert Parker points 96-100

Cos d’Estournel
The new gravity fed and futuristic cellar at Cos are as brilliant in design as the 2009 wine itself. Whilst we’ve seen some superb efforts from Cos through the noughties, Jean-Guillaume Prats and team have excelled in taking Cos up another notch with this vintage. Precise and powerful; brooding with herbal spice and chocolate…incredible richness (dare I say more like Latour). Robert Parker points 98-100

Clauzet
A great value look at the famous St Estephe style. Fresh and lively but underscored with deep crimson fruit. Profound and fantastic claret for the money. Very stylish.

Pagodes de Cos
The second wine of Cos has benefited as above and the voluptuous 2009 style is amply displayed here. Rich creamy forest fruit intertwined with cedar wrapped around a core of sweet tannins. My rather pompous sounding tasting note ended “well done all at Cos”! Robert Parker points 91-94

Les Ormes de Pez
From the owners of Lynch Bages, superb concentration. thick with currant and spice with tobacco and cedar overtones. Full and layered but with finesse. A grand effort. Robert Parker points 88-90

Pauillac

April 26th, 2010

Latour (A)
Oh yes. Latour has, for me, returned to the top of the pile this year. I can’t remember tasting a wine so rich and dense at this early stage of development. Big structure with incredible concentration rich but sweet tannins. Superb and THE wine of the Medoc by a length. Robert Parker points 98-100

Les Forts de Latour
Really tightly packed, with classic Latour aromas of brooding fruit and pencil shavings. Silky tannins and just oozing ripe black and red fruit.. Super mouthfeel. Very good. Robert Parker points 93-95

Pauillac de Latour
Jammed with fruit (a feature of all 3 wines from the Latour estate), fresh acidity and balance. Very sweet fruit and fine tannins. This will provide fine and affordable drinking in a decade. Robert Parker points 91-93

Lafite (A)
Closed nose on my barrel sample. Full palate wth soft unctuous fruit and silky tannins. Jammy but with an underlying freshness, A Lafite for a lifetime and  genuinely an outstanding effort. Robert Parker points 98-100

Carruades de Lafite
Ripe cherry and berry fruit to the brim. On the palate light, fresh with excellent balance and a hushed (for now) power. Robert Parker points 92-94

Batailley, Pauillac
Talking to owner Philippe Casteja, he felt that they could not go wrong with the weather enjoyed at Batailley during 2009. The wine is traditionally crafted with firm tannins and very ‘grown up’ fruit. Quite unyielding at this embryonic stage. Good composure and definitely a sleeper of the vintage. Robert Parker points 90-92

Duhart Milon
From the Lafite stable, one of  my favourites of the last few campaigns. Punching well above its weight; fabulous balance, ripe tannins and bold (but not brash) fruit. Heaps of style and elegance. Another bargain in the offing. Robert Parker points 94-96

Mouton Rothschild (A)
My last wine tasted after a very long day, so the palate was perhaps not as attuned as I was for their other 1st Growth neighbours. It was still looking superb. Following renewed success since 2006 in the jostling of the top 5, the ’09 is incredibly elegant. Soft tannins and masses of fruit. The finesse that is Mouton was apparent in abundance. Robert Parker points 96-98+

Petit Mouton
Sweet fruit abounds with elegance and soft sweet tannins. Very easy and sexy. Splendid length. Robert Parker points 90-92

Lynch Bages
Lynch Bages just missed out on my top 5 of the Medoc. In terms of what you get for the money (about one seventh the price of a 1st Growth) its no surprise that its always one of the worlds hottest wines. “Clean, very very tight (go my notes), but hidden layers await! Big, backward and brutal! Great stuff.” Robert Parker points 94-96+

Haut Bages Liberal
New to our offer, the last decade has seen consistant improvements at this Château and the 2009 has passed its fitness test with flying colours. “Lead pencil, lush tannins, oozing balck and red fruit, An exceedingly good Pauillac true to the commune and vintage. Well worth a punt.

Pontet Canet
The resurrection complete, Pontet Canet, provides superb drinking clarets at affordable prices. Spicy and rich with juicy damson and cherry fruit. Not heavy, but well aligned with acidity and tannin, Very good as per expectations. Robert Parker points 97-100

Pichon Longueville Baron
The best Pichon ever produced? Time will tell, but the precision of all the components in this spectacular effort were spellbinding. Perhaps 10% below the quality of 1st Growth neighbours, but at a quarter of the price. A must for the long term cellar. Robert Parker points 93-95

St Julien

April 26th, 2010

Leoville Las Cases
The ‘super second’ and finest wine consistently from St Julien does not disappoint with the 2009. Owner Jean Hubert Delon described his 3 reasons for such a fabulous effort at Las Cases – a) rigorous vineyard tasks in Spring (thinning, de-leafing, etc) b) the sunny and dry August and September and c) control of yields and resulting perfectly healthy grapes. It all sounds so easy! “Depth and polish, a sleeper with huge length and ageing potential. Wow!” Robert Parker points 96-100

Du Glana, St Julien
Our bargain offering from St Julien (along with Sarget) and new to the MMI primeur offering.  Loads of blueberry fruit and some chewy tannins. Attractive medium finish.

Clos du Marquis
From the Las Cases stable, Clos du Marquis stands on its own now that the Grand Vin has a new baby brother from 2009; ‘Le Petit Lion’. As ever Clos Du Marquis is textbook St Julien. Full and deep, masses of dense currant fruit and superfine tannins. Robert Parker points 91-93

Leoville Barton
Anthony Barton and daughter continue to shun the ‘pack’ and price their wine way below its real market rate at release. Couple this with fabulous winemaking and a claret that will age with the best of them and its no wonder Leoville Barton sells out with us very quickly. Robert Parker points 93-95+

Ducru Beaucaillou
Despite missing the chance to taste at the Chateaux this year, we did get to look at a 09 sample and thank goodness we did. It’s the best Ducru in memory – liquorice, currant and floral aromas and a powerful (that word again) through to a firm finish. Robert Parker points 96-98+

Beychevelle
My notes go “Soft, supple and elegant (yet its ‘09!). Lifted aromas of cinnamon and red and black currants. Broad structure, very elegant”. The Wine Spectator deem it could be their best since 2000. Always outstanding value for money from Beychevelle. Robert Parker points 92-94

Leoville Poyferré
There was a time when Poyferré was the perennial underachiever of the ‘Leoville” triumvirate. Things began to change with a superb ‘83, the gorgeously textured 2000 and the effort in ‘05 when the Château was chomping at the heels of Las Cases and above. The 2009 is, in most commentators eyes, one of the top 5 wines of St Julien. Robert Parker points 97-100

Gruaud Larose
“Rich, meaty and full. Liquorice, spice and deep cherry and currant fruit. Typical Gruaud. Good” Ran my brief annotation, for I was being harangued by a number of Bordeaux merchants and Chateaux owners all at the same time! However, it looks like Jean Merlaut, David Launay and Gruaud team have excelled again. Robert Parker points 92-94+

Sarget de Gruaud Larose
All the above just a little lighter and easier to broach within its first decade of its life, but also beyond in vintages like this. Always worth a couple of cases.

Talbot
Perennial favourite for MMI. Soft, easy – even a bit tarty. Inviting for early drinking.
James Suckling of the Wine Spectator gives Talbot 92-95 points and this excellent estate keeps on making greatly undervalued wines of some breeding. Robert Parker points 92-94

Margaux

April 26th, 2010

Margaux (A)
A top ten Medoc, Margaux has produced a stonker in 2009. The next big thing in China? Perhaps, but for this sublime vintage, getting a case of this precious liquid should be mandatory. Muscle and elegance fused together seamlessly. Robert Parker points 98-100

Pavillon Rouge du Château Margaux
The second wine of Margaux is often a generous offering of its big brother with slightly less finesse. The 2009 is well defined and structured and will drink beautifully in ten years. Robert Parker points 91-93

La Tour du Mons
Another new wine for MMI, although a stalwart of European markets for many years. Tour du Mons gives you true Margaux at a price that doesn’t make you think too hard about opening the second bottle. Let it age and this will offer fab drinking within 6 or 7 years.

Rauzan Segla
Soft, elegant and quite showy. Moderate weight. A good balanced effort that will repay mid term cellaring. Robert Parker points 92-95

Durfort Vivens
Delicious, well balanced. Dark blueberry and currant fruit and savoury aromas. Old fashioned  Margaux. Superfine tannins. Classically aligned. Very seductive. Robert Parker points 87-89

Du Tetre
Rich and full with savoury and mineral aromas. Heavy but with fresh acidity golding it firm. Subtle and attractive. Robert Parker points 90-92

Giscours
Very sweet fruit, hard tannins but with depth and purity. Its all there, as we expect from Giscours these days. Robert Parker points 91-93

Malescot St Exupery
One of the wines of the Margaux commune in 2009. Steely tight, spicy oriental nose, toasted oak, mint and bags of sweet red currant fruit. Harmony and balance throughout. 2020 onwards. Robert Parker points 95-97

Palmer
An astonishingly good Palmer. Slightly muted nose, but pure and linear fruit and intensity. Dense bramble, mocha and liquorice. Quite superb and polished. Robert Parker points 94-96

Pessac Leognan

April 26th, 2010

Haut Brion
Tasted at La Misssion with their wine director Jean- Philippe Delmas.  He says (on-line): “… 2009 Haut Brion can be said to be a cross between 2005 and 1989. We are now able to say it is the most beautiful wine the estate has ever produced” Bold words, but the wine is awesome indeed and vying for top 5 wine of the vintage. A big wine that will outlive our youngest legal age drinker! Robert Parker points 98-100

La Mission Haut Brion
Sibling, co-owned and same winemaker as Haut Brion itself; sometimes pushes La Mission out of people’s minds but it shouldn’t. Definitely a top 20 wines of the entire vintage. “Soft, decadent, deep crimson, forest fruit, creamy chocolate, and subdued and elegant tannins. Quite a different animal than above, but a cracking La Mission” Robert Parker points 98-100

Smith Haut-Lafitte
We’ve come to expect sterling efforts from the Cathiard’s at Smith Haut and they’ve done it again here. A huge wine -  dense, smoky, spiced chocolate all around colossal but sweet tannins. Up to 98/100 from Wine Spectator. Robert Parker points 96-98+

Domaine de Chevalier
One of Bordeaux’s firm favourites and always astoundingly good value. Oozing berry fruit and deep dark chocolate – there’s actually so much fruit that the tannins appear non existent – although actually subdued in this recurring ’09 style. Robert Parker points 94-96

St Emilion

April 26th, 2010

Cheval Blanc (A)
The big daddy of St Emilion. With a new barrel cellar being built next to the Château, this normally pretty little property was somewhat of a mess this spring. However, it doesn’t seem to have affected the winemakers! An atypical Cheval Blanc with a lot less Cabernet Franc than usual (60% Merlot). Tight and precise and not yielding at all, it’s a top wine for the long haul. Robert Parker points 98-100

Ausone (A)
Miniscule amounts of this ethereal liquid are made – so it always costs a bomb and we rarely get more than a couple of cases. However, stick your nose into a glass of ’09 and you’ll see why its one of the top wines of the world. Some seem to have lost the plot in saying; “it touches every millimetre of your palate and the texture makes you want to cry” That was the Wine Spectator. Whatever, it only didn’t make my top 5 as there’s virtually none to get! Robert Parker points 95-97

Pavie (A)
One always expects a fruit and tannin monster from Pavie in a vintage like this. Well they’ve done it again with bells on. Just jammed with dense fruit, somewhere amongst are broad tannins giving the wine the structure to age magnificently. Remember, there are only 7,000 cases of Pavie for the world… Robert Parker points 96-100

Troplong Mondot
Not tasted. However, the Wine Spectator gives the following note; “intense aromas of blackberry and blueberry follow through to a full body, with well integrated tannins and fruity finish, Offers lots of liquorice and spice. There’s lovely length to this. Reserved and pretty.” Robert Parker points 94-97

Angelus
Tasted at the Château with owner Hubert de Bouard. James Bond’s current tipple was in ’09, with sweet and very ripe fruit. Soft tannins and amazing weight and depth. V V good! The essence of Angelus is understated power. Robert Parker points 96-100

Canon La Gaffeliere
A beautifully structured wine, offering powerful tannins along with the ripest, perfumed fruit coming from a large dollop of Cabernet Franc. It balances rich fruit with an intense mineral structure. Impressive. Robert Parker points 94-96

Figeac
Dark and tannic, very smoky. Perfumed fruits go with oak and a complex structure. The Cabernet tannins are rounded out by juicy Merlot. (It’s a third each Cab Sauv, Cab Franc and Merlot). Bags of bramble fruit and mocha with silken tannins. Robert Parker points 95-98

Clos Fourtet
Super ripe fruit from this excellent estate. Clos Fourtet is certainly now one of the best St Emilion year on year. Big and juicy, soft tannins and through to a balanced core. Will be a bargain I’m sure. Robert Parker points 95-98

Magdelaine
One from the Jean-Pierre Mouiex stable. This is a huge and awkward Magdelaine to taste at the embryonic stage. Rich and polished, very stylish with good grip and weight. Deep cherry and damson fruit. Very good. Robert Parker points 92-94

Pomerol

April 26th, 2010

La Fleur Petrus
Very sexy! Violets and damson aromas fusing seamlessly. Bold and creamy with an amazing complexity with a very long finish. Miniscule allocation. Robert Parker points 96-98

Latour a Pomerol
Elegance personified! Good weight, fresh acidity and ripe dark fruit. A very solid effort and, as above, tiny quantities. Robert Parker points 92-94

Trotanoy
This is the best ‘Trot’ in years. Massive structure of chocolate, blue and blackberry and oriental spice. Rich but balanced by superfine tannins. Robert Parker points 97-100

Petrus (A)
The wine of the vintage? This is the first year that the wine has been shown during the Primeur week at the Château itself. Winemaker Olivier Berrouet tasted with us.(He took over the reigns for this vintage following 43 consecutive vintages made by his father Jean-Claude). An incredible wine indeed. The sample we tried was 100% Merlot although they do have 3 barrels of Cabernet Franc which they may add as a dollop to the final blend. I’m not sure it needs it. For a raw wine to be so palatable so early gives an indication of the power of the fruit wrapped around a fine tannic structure. The inevitable question of a vintage to compare was answered thus: “It has the power of the ’89, the smoothness and texture of the ’01 and the structure of the ’05.” For the lucky few. Robert Parker points 96-100

Gazin
Deep dark and brooding Gazin. Solid fruit with mocha, cinnamon and mulberry fruit. Borad tannnis and seamless through to a long finish. Robert Parker points 94-96

Clinet
Delightful sweet and full nose. Herbs, spice, dark fruit – damsons and plums – on the nose and then through the mid palate. Exceptionally good Clinet. Robert Parker points 97-100

Vieux Château Certan
84% Merlot and 8% of each Cabernet. Full bodied but so soft for one so tender in months. Rammed with berries and dark chocolate. A possible 100 pointer..? Robert Parker points 96-99

Haut Medoc, Cotes, etc

April 26th, 2010

Cantemerle, Haut Medoc
Tight but juicy and well knit. Very sweet tannins and balance. Quality here matches their fab 2005 effort. Always great value drinking claret.  Robert Parker points 90-92

Patache d’Aux, Haut Medoc
Very complete. Great structure and fruit. Balanced and rich. Way better than its price tag – hence we follow it again this year.    

Lafon, Listrac Medoc
The small appellation of Listrac often churns out green and stalky wines. Château Lafon, however, was firm blackcurrant fruit with a goof soft underbelly. Fine tannins and masses of style. A bargain.

D’Aiguilhe, Cotes de Castillon
From Stephan Von Nieperg of Canon La Gaffeliere, this cracking Cotes de Castillon is always worth a case or two. The ’09 will be drinking from 2015 but will benefit another few years also.  Robert Parker points 90-92

Belgrave, Haut Medoc
New to our offer, another super duper value for money offering.  Inky and rich. A good early drinking Cru Bourgeois. Sexy quality for your dirham.  Robert Parker points 88-90+

Goulee, Haut Medoc
Effectively the 3rd wine of Cos d’Estournel. Goulee, very ripe and dense, big and brawny. Spicy and herbal nose. Soft tannins with mint, cherry and blackcurrant fruit.  Robert Parker points 89-91

Maucaillou, Moulis en Medic
From the Medoc sub region of Moulis, this property belies its humble appellation. Great mouthfeel, elegant nose – serious weight and texture. A fine Maucaillou.

La Lagune, Haut Medoc
At the ‘wines of the Medoc’ 2009 tasting, La Lagune once again showed that it is yards ahead of its nearest rival from the appellation and if the 1855 classification ever got updated, it would probably come in now as a 2nd Growth. Very classy, tightly wound, dense and ripe fruit. Well crafted and will last a long long time. Robert Parker points 94-96

Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc
Always stunning value quality ratio. Mineral freshness balanced by juicy blue and black currant fruit. Harmonious tannins and good length. Quite tough now, but exuberant fruit will carry it along well. Robert Parker points 90-92+

Château Les Ormes de Pez 2009
From the owners of Lynch Bages, superb concentration. thick with currant and spice with tobacco and cedar overtones. Full and layered but with finesse. A grand effort.

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